As is fairly well known, gardenia has rarely been produced as a genuine floral absolute. The amount of flowers required to make the concrete from which the absolute is later produced is enormous.
Steffen Arctander reports in Flavor and Fragrance Materials of Natural Origin :
"The flower of this plant have been known and admired for their outstanding fragrance for thousands of years. However, these flowers are rarely submitted to extraction for the isolation of essential oil, concrete or absolute. One reason is the very small yield(about 1 kilo of absolute for 5000 kilo of flowers). Another is the limiteduse of the gardenia type of fragrance in perfumery. Finally this type of fragrance is relatively easy to copy (using synthetic and natural isolates), although a good artificial gardenia base is more rare for example than a good artificial muguet base...A concrete of Gardenia flowers was produced many years ago in the Indian Ocean island of Reunion when the French extraction expert, Charles Garnier established himself with his world famous equipment on that island. Production on Reunion was abandoned long ago..."
As with previous perfumes I set out to create a natural perfume that would capture something of the sweet mystery of the perfume of Gardenia which in my experience is a combination of a sweet jasmine/tuberose complex into which a high sharp green note interplays.