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Cologne Melange, Traditional(oil-soluble) /Citrus, Coumarinic, Herbaceous / $20 oz blend

  • Product # 1578
  • Part Distilled various
  • Process steam distillation
  • Growth Method various
  • Origin various

We then returned to the second room, which i& 
not of so high a temperature as the bath. Here an ample 
supply of towels, and vases filled with cologne and orange- 
flower water, furnished . us with the means of being dried 
and perfumed ; and then, enveloped in robes-de-chambre, 
we returned to the first room, where, reposing on the divan 
for some time, we gave way to that exhilaration of spirits 
which a Turkish bath is sure to inspire.

"Sketches of Turkey in 1831 and 1832" 
De Kay, James E

 

 

Cologne Concentrate, traditional is a blend of bergamot bergapatene free eo, lemon eo, bitter orange eo, clary sage eo, lavender eo and rosemary eo.

There are numerous old recipes of Cologne based upon citrus oils and herbal oils, all aiming to capture the sublime balanced beauty of top notes which harmonize with each other and present a refreshing, uplifting, zesty bouquet.  Cologne Concentrate is  a colorless to pale yellow liquid displaying soft, sweet, citrus, coumarinic, herbaceous bouquet.

In the old recipes neroli is often included in varying percentages to lend an ethereal floral note to the bouquet but in this recipe neroli was not included so perfumers can add their own floral note, to create their personal signature cologne or perfume depending on the percentage of alcohol or carrier oil they wish to dilute it in. If 190 proof ethanol is used then the final product will be  an opaque liquid and if a carrier oil is used then it will be a clear transparent liquid.

The fresh citrus herbaceous notes of Cologne hence are associated with one of the first truly international perfumes that has survived the centuries. But the second meaning of "Cologne" in the perfumers terminology simply refers to the percentage of concentrated essences to perfumers alcohol or carrier oil. Cologne in this context is a dilution of 3%-8%(generally 5%) essences, the balance being perfumers alcohol(or carrier oil should one wish to use that as a medium for their aromatic creations) In this type of dilution the Cologne is a very short lived essence that is meant as an aromatic pick-me-up to be applied regularly throughout the day. If a carrier oil is to be used then Grape Seed is an excellent choice as it is very light.

But there is absolutely no reason why a citrus/herbaeous type Cologne cannot serve as an elegant top note and be used in wide variety of applications at higher percentages. In short its application is virtually unlimited because the basic citrus-herbal accord is very dynamic and blends excellently with floral, spice, balsamic,  etc essences. I have included some very simple but elegant recipes with the melanges of Wallflower, Lily of the Valley, Magnolia, White Lily, Lilac, Heliotrope, and Mignonette as idea generators. All the recipes are for the concentrate perfume and need to be further diluted to display the full gamut of their aromatic beauty.

Cologne Concentrate, Traditional has been created as a undiluted blended essence to serve the needs of perfumers who wish to have a lovely accord to commence their blending exercises. If one wishes to create a Cologne type essence based on the a perfumers concept of Cologne in terms of percentage of essence to alcohol then 1 ounce would be sufficient to create 20 ounces of final product(remembering that such a blend would have an aromatic life of very short duration) If to be used adding other floral melanges, absolutes, ruhs, etc then as the ration change as much as 1 ounce of the final blend to 3 ounces of perfumers alcohol or carrier oil.  

My experience is that a really lovely effect can be created by adding 10-20% of a floral essence such as neroli eo, rose otto, lily of the valley melange, etc to the 80-90% of the Cologne concentrate to create simple but very elegant colognes, perfumes etc.

 

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Note: Limit 10 samples per order.