White Lotus Aromatics Newsletter - Vetiver, Sept. 24, 2000
NewsNeNwsNNewsletter Archive ewsl
Vetiver
Dear Friends,
A number of new oils continue to come in and I hope through these newsletters
to keep you informed of them. I have put up on the Fragrant Harvest Web Site
an archive of the newsletters in case you ever need to go back and see what
they contained. In this newsletter we will be focusing on vetiver(Vetiveria
ziazaniodes), a most wonderful grass with aromatic roots. The oils distilled
or extracted from this plant possesses many unique qualities, foremost, in my
opinion, all the magical qualities of the earth from which is harvested. I hope
that each of you, at some point, will have the opportunity to see the plant
and its intricate system of roots which penetrate deep into the earth. Thousands
of tiny fibrous rootlets weave their way through the soil in which they live,
extracting from the soil many precious elements that help create the complex
earthy, mysterious, rich and complex bouquet that characterize this oil.
Arctander
describes it thus: "Vetiver is an amber colored to grayish brown, olive brown
or dark brown viscous liquid whose odor is sweet and very heavy woody-earthy,
reminiscent of roots and wet soil, with a rich undertone of 'precious woods'
notes...." It is important to realize that such descriptions can only a glimpse
of the complexity and variety found in this oil. As thousands of tiny rootlets
are in intimate contact with the earth in which the plant dwells the capacity
to absorb many rare and precious elements is increased dramatically.
One time I was traveling with Ramakant Harlalka and Dr. Mohan Maheshwari in North India in a region of Uttar Pradesh where vetiver was growing wild. Dr. Maheshwari, who had spent many years analyzing the vetiver of North India told us that the oil displayed widely varied characteristics even within very restricted zones where the plant was growing. Much had to do with the type of earth it was growing in, proximity to water, etc. There are many many small details which can affect the way in which the plant "distills" the particular elements present in an environment. Then when the plants are uprooted for distilling or extracting the oil, other factors come into play which affect the type of oil one procures. In the case of vetiver the maturity of roots is of critical importance. If the oils are harvested from 12-18 months in the plants life cycle it will yield one type of oil, from 18-24(often considered ideal) another type of oil, etc. Then one has to consider the method of distillation. That is the aromatic oil in the roots can be extracted by hydrodiffusion, hydrodistillation, CO2 extraction(this has been done on experimental basis and yields a fantastic oil), steam distillation and solvent extraction. These and many other factors determine the quantity and quality of the oil procured.
In India there are vast open regions where vetiver grows wild. The local tribal people called Advasi's are often engaged in doing the work of this labor intensive harvest. Living simple lives, they travel from place to place and set up their camps, men, women and children. They construct temporary living structures out of available local materials, construct outdoor kitchens,etc and then devote themselves to harvesting the roots. Using heavy duty prying tools the men plunge them into the area surrounding the vetiver plants and hoist the heavy root balls out of the earth. The top part of the plant is cut off a few inches above the soil level(the aerial parts are 4-7 feet high) and then the roots are pounded against a rock to remove all excess soil(this work is generally done from November-February which is the dry season) The women then prepare the roots for sale by tying them into beautiful knots. From the remote regions where the plants grow, they are transported by bullock cart to a main road where trucks are waiting to take them to the distillery. A full report on this industry in North India is to be found at: http://members.aol.com/parijata/vetiver.html It is important to realize that vetiver is one of the finest plants for erosion control and so it is extensively planted throughout the world in countries where the environmental conditions are conducive to its growth.
There is an entire vetiver network devoted to this plant and its uses.
http://www.vetiver.org/
This site is well worth exploring.
In order to share some of the diversity of aromas present in vetiver I have been active in directly sourcing the oil from Indonesia, India, Madagascar, and Sri Lanka. I think all vetiver lover's will find an oil that they will find enjoyable. I should mention one important thing which might be worthy of consideration. Often we judge an oil by its "out of the bottle" aroma, that is to say in its undiluted form. But we should always endeavor to remember that the high density of aromatic molecules present in a pure oil may not be the best conditions under which to perform an olfactory evaluation. If one can "spread" the molecules in the oil out a bit, it can lead one into an entirely different world of olfactory explorations. I prefer to do olfactory evaluation of such oils in a12% dilution in a pure190% proof undenatured grain alcohol. This, by perfumer's standards is still quite high but at least one can get a great sense of how the oil will perform both as an individual oil and in combination with other oils. One may wish to use any number of other dilutents such as Jojoba, Grape Seed, Fractionated Coconut oil etc but I have found that for olfactory analysis most of the above mentioned products mute some of the finer nuances of the oil. They are certainly excellent for therapeutic massage application but for the analysis of the oil from an olfactory standpoint, one may wish to do their explorations through a high proof undenatured grain alcohol. Please note one more important thing. Vetiver is one of the oils that becomes more and more beautiful from an olfactory standpoint as it ages.
Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides) is a clump-forming grass up to 2 meters in height with roots that can penetrate to 3 meters deep. Vetiver is closely related to other fragrant grasses such as Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon citratus) and Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii). Vetiver is most easily propagated vegetatively due to the fact that most cultivars produce limited amounts of viable seed while others do not flower at all. Vetiver is a long-lived perennial and can survive up to 50 years or more.
Vetiver is native to the Indian subcontinent, but is widely cultivated in Indonesia, the West Indies, Africa and Polynesia. Large producers include India, Java, Haiti and Réunion.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vetiver
NOTES ON VETIVER AND OTHER ESSENTIAL OILS
Vetiver:
Vetiver oil is obtained from Vetiveria zizanoides L., a grass that can be found in both tropical and subtropical parts of the world. The roots of this grass yield an essential oil on steam distillation. The complicated odor profile of vetiver oil is dominated by a woody balsamic
tonality of a very special kind. Qualities of vetiver oil that are mainly used in perfumery
originate from Java, India, the Reunion Island, Seychelles, and in recent times Haiti, Angola,
Brazil and Japan have become sources for this product.
Vetiver oil consists of a complex mixture of more than 150 sesquiterpenoid constituents. The
composition and odor quality of the oil is dependent upon its origin. Among the 60 components
identified to date, the sesquiterpene alpha-vetivone 1, ?-vetivone 2, and khusinol 3 always occur
in the oil in amounts up to 35%. As a result, they are considered to be fingerprints of the oil even
though they do not possess the typical odor characteristics associated with vetiver.
Because vetiver oil contains a complicated mixture of sesquiterpenes of differing complex
structures, it is unlikely that an economical reconstitution of the oil, will be feasible in the near
future.
Vetiver Notes:
Vetiver oil is used as part of the woody notes for luxury perfumes. The oils of vetiver, patchouli
and sandalwood in combination with a jasmin and gardenia complex, is the base of the famous
Crêpe de Chine note. In addition to its importance in classical perfumery, vetiver oil is also used
as a base for many modern men’s colognes.
Source: Guenther Ohloff: Scent and Fragrances. The Fascination of Odors and their Chemical
Perspectives, Springer-Verlag, Berlin and Heidelberg 1994, p. 172 f.
Ruh Khus : An Exotic Perfume and Fragrance of Asia
http://www.internationalfragrances.com/ruh_khus.asp
Vetiver or Khus (Vetiveria ziazaniodes) is a grass with a fine spongy root system found growing
wild throughout North India. Its roots possess one of the most exotic aromas imaginable which
has captivated people for thousands of years. It yields an exotic oil, known as the Oil of
Tranquillity in the East.
The wild variety is the "seedy" vetiver which propagates itself through seeds as opposed to the
cultivated variety of vetiver which must be propagated by division. Seedy Vetiver oil is
extensively used in various essences requiring the deep, mysterious, rich and earthy notes. The
wild vetiver seldom finds its way into the international commercial channels. It is entirely
consumed within the country. Wild vetiver oil fetches a price four times that of the cultivated
variety in India.
Ruh Khus (Wild Vetiver Oil) - The Oil of Tranquility
Khus oil, with its widely varied aromatic traits, cannot be pigeonholed into a stable set of
characteristics. One of the most complex oils known, with a multidimensional aromatic profile,
which is a challenge to the perfumier. Modern technology has so far isolated over 150 aromatic
molecules from vetiver, but still there are the unidentifiable ones.
The finest Khus oil is extracted from plants 18-24 months old. Khus oil is dark, thick and brown,
with an almost syrupy consistency, getting thicker with the aroma getting deeper and more
intense as the oil matures. The immediate impression is one of powerful earthy diffusiveness,
and later a quiet sweetness interwoven with its more earthy tones. As one goes deeper still, one
discovers the precious wood notes similar to that of sandalwood or agarwood.
Khus oil is a fixative par excellence as it can unite every part of a composition from the ethereal
top notes to the deep base ones. In blends, it takes the front seat, unlike sandalwood oil which
wouldn't mind quietly moving to the background. Some oils which blend well with khus oil are
patchouly, cinnamon bark, linaloe berry, sandalwood, oakmoss, opopanax and mimosa. It is a
heavy oil which needs to be diluted enough so that it does not dominate a blend.
Khus mats provide the most unique form of air-conditioning in India during the hot summer
months. The most renowned use for the roots is as screens hung over windows, which keep the
room cool on a hot day when they are periodically sprinkled with water. In Northern India, one
can find cars with wet Khus covers on the top, to keep its occupants cool.
Essential Oils Supplier
www.nematinternational.com
History
Vetiver has been known in India from the ancient times. It has been considered a high-class perfume. Copper plate inscriptions listing the perfume as one of the articles used by royalty have been discovered. In Ayurvedic literature it is called 'Suganti-mulaka' (means Sweet smelling) and 'Sita-mulaka' (having cool roots). All over India, the roots are made into scented mats, fans, ornamental baskets and many other small articles. Also burnt as a fumigatory.
http://www.himalayahealthcare.com/herbfinder/h_vetiveria.htm
Indications
It is widely used in perfumes and cosmetics, and for scenting soaps. It blends well with the oils of sandalwood, patchouli and rose. A decoction of the leaves is recommended as a diaphoretic. When locally applied in rheumatism, lumbago and sprain, it is a good ambrocation and affords relief. In Madhya Pradesh, the plant is used as an anthelmintic for children The oil is reported to be used as a carminative in flatulence, colic and obstinate vomiting. It is regarded as a stimulant, refrigerant and antibacterial and when applied externally, it removes excess heat from the body and gives a cooling effect. A decoction of the leaves is recommended as a diaphoretic.
http://www.himalayahealthcare.com/herbfinder/h_vetiveria.htm
Other Uses, and Utilization of Vetiver: Vetiver Oil
U. C. Lavania
Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, Lucknow – 226 015, India
Abstract:
Vetiver, a native of India is known for its perfumery and medicinal value since ancient
times, much before the world became familiar with rose scents. The annual world trade in vetiver oil
is estimated to be around 250 tons, with Haiti, Indonesia (Java), China, India, Brazil, Japan being the
main producers, and USA, Europe, India, and Japan being the main consumers. It is a gift of India to
modern world, and finds its greatest use in modern perfume creations. The essential oil distilled from
the roots of vetiver, is one of the most complex mixtures of sesquiterpene alcohols and
hydrocarbons, and also one of the most viscous oils with an extremely slow rate of volatility. Slow
evaporation rate of vetiver oil coupled with its pleasant aroma makes it a perfume by itself. Its high
solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it unique
perfume resource, for which no synthetic substitute is yet available.
The essential oil produced in
different countries possesses distinct odor note – Reunion (Bourbon) and Haitian oil with roseate
note is highly regarded in perfumery industry, but the vetiver (khus) oil obtained from wild ‘Khus’
roots in India is considered to be the best for its balsamic woody note. Washed fresh or soaked
semidried roots when distilled by hydro-distillation / steam distillation produce an amber or dark
brown oil with a viscous texture. When the oil is distilled using traditional copper vessel in
conventional slow fire stills, the oil produced is of dark green color. Normally 15-18 month old
roots, harvested during December - January are most suitable to realize high concentration and good
quality of essential oil. Depending upon the biotype, cultural practice, age of roots and mode and
duration of distillation, vetiver roots may give a yield of about 0.3 to 2 % essential oil on fresh root
weight basis. Under ideal steam distillation conditions the economic distillation of essential oil is
realized within 15-18 hrs, but low temperature wood-fired distillers may require over 24 hrs. Lately,
molecular extraction by liquid carbon dioxide is gaining preference over hydro-distillation methods
to realize high-grade essential oil.
Chemical composition of vetiver oil is extremely complex, mainly comprising of
sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpene derivatives, of which vetiverols, their carbonyl compounds and
esters, are the main constituents, and their relative abundance normally establishes the oil quality.
Three carbonyl compounds, _-vetivone, _-vetivone and khusimone, are considered the primary
odor-influencing components; _-vetivone has the better odor, and is considered the most important,
while its major isomer nordihydro _-vetivone has a strong, rich, woody-peppery note. The oil and
its constituents are used extensively for blending oriental type of perfumes and floral compounds, as
well as in other cosmetic and aromatherapy applications. It is very persistent and one of the finest
fixatives known. Vetiver oil is a main ingredient in 36 % of all western quality perfumes and 20 % of
all men’s fragrances. Dried roots are used as sachets / stuffing material to prepare ventilating screens
that provide cool air effect and pleasant aroma when moistened.
Key words: Khus oil, vetiver oil, vetiver perfume, essential oil, vetiver roots, perfume fixative,
perfume blender, aromatic plant, aromatherapy
E-mail contacts:
U.C. Lavania
<lavania@cimap.res.in> and <lavaniauc@yahoo.co.in>
INTRODUCTION
Vetiver is the omni-useful plant, almost all parts of which are used in one or more ways having
direct as well as multifarious cultural and industrial applications. Of course, the commercial and social
utility of this plant was first realized on account of its aromatic roots, and lately overwhelmed by
environmental applications of the plant as such, as well as diverse industrial uses of above ground
plant parts (Chomchalow and Chapman, 2003) . The essential oil obtained from the roots of vetiver
is the major source of national economy of at least two nationalities i.e. Haiti Island in the Caribbean
and Reunion island in the Indian ocean.
2
VETIVER ROOT AND ROOT-OIL
The roots originating from vetiver clumps comprise of tufted fibrous mass. Tremendous
diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for
occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil.
Natural Diversity and Cultivation of Vetiver for Root Oil
Vetiver is native to India and is found in wild state throughout the Indian subcontinent
encompassing temperate to tropical climate. For various economic purposes including extraction of
essential oil, the roots are dug out from wild resources in northern India, but are obtained under
cultivation in south India, and several other countries. Haiti island in the Caribbean is the major
source for the supply of vetiver oil to the world market, followed by Java (Indonesia), China, Japan,
India etc. Depending upon the country of occurrence, cultivation practices, climatic conditions, and
genetic origin, there occurs tremendous diversity with respect to yield and quality of essential oil,
ranging from earthy woody balsamic note to sweet roseate note.
Cultivation for Roots and Root-oil
Traditionally, in India vetiver roots are obtained by manual digging from about two year old
plants occurring in wild to extract high perfumery grade essential oil, called as “khus oil”, but in south
India and elsewhere in other countries vetiver is grown under cultivation. For optimum growth the
vetiver plant requires long day conditions and plenty of sunlight. Under irrigated conditions vetiver
plantations are established any time during the year, but for rain-fed conditions it is advisable that
plantations should be established with the onset of rains. In poor soils and waste lands high plant
population at 60 x 45 cm plant to row distance may be desirable, and less with improved soil and
cultural conditions. During growth period shoots 25 - 30 cm above the ground need to be harvested
intermittently during slow growth period of low temperature conditions. Since, digging of soil for
root harvesting may be environmentally undesirable, an alternative means of growing vetiver could
be in poly-bags and other containers (Chomchalow, 2001). This would not only mitigate soil erosion
concerns but also increase cost benefit ratio of vetiver cultivation for its roots and root oil, as well as
optimum utilization of degraded lands as poly-bag platforms. 15 – 18 month old roots are ideal for to
realize good oil quality and high oil productivity.
Distillation and Processing of Essential Oil
Age, quality and stage of root harvest, and processing for distillation are vital components for
efficient processing of essential oil distillation. Essential oil could be distilled both from fresh and
dried roots. Recovery of essential is very high from fresh roots, but leaving the roots in open for 2 –
3 days after harvesting with a day temperature of around 25 C yields high quality essential oil, since
the undesirable non-polar low boiling components of the oil are naturally evaporated off, although
oil recovery is somewhat reduced. Both freshly harvested roots and semidried roots soaked overnight
in water could be used for essential oil extraction.
Three methods of distillation are traditionally practiced in India (Singh and Singh, 1998). The
one for an on site distillation is “Bhapka” system which is quite common in north India. The
distillation equipment consists of a round bottom copper still “Deg” and a receiver “Bhapka” also
made of copper. The “Deg” is connected with “Bhapka” by a bamboo called “Chonga”. The
“Chonga” serves the purpose of a pipe to allow the steam to reach to the “Bhapka” from “Deg” for
condensation. The “Bhapka” is placed in a small water tank for cooling. Depending upon the size of
the “Deg” 50 – 100 kg of semidried roots could be distilled. Although, the recovery of oil by
“Bhapka” system is lower and the distillation requires 4 - 5 hours longer than the other methods of
distillation, but the quality of the oil thus recovered is of much superior quality. Other methods of
distillation make use of steam generating boilers and direct wood fired distillers. In directly fired
distillers the water coming from the separators may be cohobated. The oil recovered from slow fired
“Bhapka” distillers is usually light –to- dark green in color, whereas the one obtained from boiler
operated and directly fired stills is yellowish brown in color. For optimum recovery and economic
productivity of oil, it is suggested that roots may be harvested when the maximum day temperature is
25 - 27 C, roots be distilled at the earliest after the harvest, and distillation performed just for about
15 hrs, and age of roots around 18 months (Aggarwal et al., 1998; Lavania, 2003).
In order to improve quality and increase shelf life, the freshly distilled oil need to be
dehydrated to remove water either by anhydrous sodium sulphate or natural evaporation by air
drying, and then allowed to mature by natural oxidation for about six months in amber color glass
bottles with a bit of air trapped inside the container till it develops green coloration. Excessive
oxidation is to be avoided as this may lead to malodor formation. However, to obtain vetiver oil
truly representative of its occurrence in planta modern methods of liquid carbon dioxide extraction
may be done. The vetiver ‘oleoresin’ thus obtained is a very stable more mobile golden liquid, free
from residue, enriched with polar compounds and quality odor. Absence of residue makes such oil
more soluble in alcohol and improves its miscibility suitable for blending with other perfume
materials.
Essential Oil Composition and Qualitative Differentiation
The main fibrous smooth roots are more important for oil quality. The oil accumulated in the
secondary hairy roots, although enhances oil concentration per se, but the perfumery value of the oil
is drastically reduced on account of the presence of higher concentration of non-polar compounds.
Further, to minimize the presence of such unwanted non-polar compounds in the oil, it is advisable
that either (i) the roots after the harvest may be left in open for air drying for a day or two with a
day temperature not exceeding 27 C to allow natural evaporation of undesirable lighter oil fraction,
(ii) the essential oil fraction recovered in the initial 15 - 30 min. of distillation may be dispensed
with, (iii) the essential oil be extracted as ‘oleoresin’ by molecular methods of liquid carbon dioxide
extraction to get rid of residual components.
Chemical composition of vetiver oil is extremely complex, said to contain some 100
sesquiterpene-type compounds and their derivatives, belonging to 11 structural classes; an exhaustive
account of which could be found in Akhila and Rani (2002). The main constitutents of vetiver oil
comprise of: sesquiterpene hydrocarbons such as, _-cadenene, clovene, _-amorphine, aromadendrine,
junipene; their alcohol derivatives – vetiverols such as , khusimol, epiglobulol, spathulenol, khusinol;
carbonyl derivatives – vetivones (ketones) such as, _-vetivone, _-vetivone, khusimone; and ester
derivative such as, khusinol acetate. Three carbonyl compounds, _-vetivone, _-vetivone and
khusimone, are considered the primary odor-influencing components; _-vetivone has the better odor,
and is considered the most important, while its major isomer nordihydro _-vetivone has a strong,
rich, woody-peppery note. All these components individually and collectively contribute to the
characteristic odor of the vetiver (Lavania, 2003). Of course, _-vetivone, _-vetivone and khusimol
can be considered as the ‘finger print’ of vetver oil (Demole et al., 1995).
There are distinct geographical differences in quality and perfumery note of essential oil
obtained from different geographic regions of the world. In a broad sense, the essential oil of vetiver
having high specific gravity, negative optical rotation, high vetiverol concentration and higher ester
value is considered superior from perfumery view point. Reunion oil with roseate note is highly
regarded in perfumery industry, but the vetiver oil (khus oil) obtained from the roots occurring in
wild state in north Indian plains, commonly known as ‘khus’ is considered to be the best for its
balsamic woody note. Lately, vetiver genotypes producing vetiver oil with roseate and saffron note
have also been identified from north Indian plains (Lal et al., 1998).
UTILIZATION
Vetiver is such a unique plant that almost whole of the plant is utilized through its raw
material, as well as by way of biological and environmental implications. Of all its plant parts, its
odoriferous roots have been in usage since ancient times.
Vetiver roots comprise of tufted mass of fibrous, odoriferous spongy material having high
tensile strength. Owing to pleasant aroma and refrigerant properties, the vetiver roots are variously
used for household and coolant purposes. Dried roots are employed to scent linen and clothes as such,
or in the form of sachets, and burned as incense. In India, the vetiver roots have been in use since
ancient times for making woven screens, mats, blinds (chik), hand fans, broom hangers, and baskets.
Root-mats designed in the form of panels called ‘khus-tatti’ are used to prepare makeshift huts /
cabins, that are variously used during summers to provide cooling effect. Such woven products made
from dried roots when sprinkled with water and hung at the proper ventilating space provide cooling
effect and pleasant aromatic air. Lately, vetiver roots have become common stuffing item in
ventilating panels used in electric desert coolers (Lavania, 2003). Also, compressed hard panels could
be made from the roots of vetiver (Chomchalow and Chapman, 2003). Probably high tensile strength
of vetiver roots and the inherent anti-microbial property on account of its essential oil, make
vetiver roots an ideal natural material for making compressed hard boards and panels. Decoction of
roots is believed to dissolve kidney stones, and a paste made from pounded fresh roots is considered
an abortifacient (Weiss, 1997).
3.2 Oil
The vetiver oil is traditionally known as “vetivert oil” in trade, and is obtained from the
aromatic roots of vetiver. The annual world trade in ‘vetivert oil” is estimated around 250 tons, with
Haiti, Indonesia (Java), China, Japan, India, Brazil being the main producers, and USA, Europe, India
and Japan being the main consumers. The essential oil is produced in the bast region of the root, and
is distilled mainly through hydro-distillation. From qualitative angle two distinct types of essential oil
is obtained in India; (i) north Indian type obtained from profuse flowering seed forming race of
vetiver (khus) occurring in wild, and is called as “khus oil”, and (ii) south Indian type called “vetiver
oil / vetivert oil” obtained from non-flowering / late-flowering / non-seeding / low-seed forming type
available in cultivation. The “khus oil” from north India is distinctly superior on account of high
ester value and higher concentration of heavier carbonyl fractions compared to the “vetiver oil”
from all other sources. Former fetches the market price by over two fold than the latter. A rare C14
class of terpenoid ‘khusilal’ is unique to north Indian ‘khus oil” that imparts strong negative rotation
to the oil and enhanced perfumery value. A brief account of physicochemical characteristics of
vetiver oil from different geographical regions of the world is given in Lavania (2003), and the
chemical profile provided by Lemberg and Halley (1978).
Perfumery and Related Applications
Vetiver is known for its perfumery value in India since ancient times. It is a Gift of India
(Morris, 1983) to the world of perfumes, and its use in scents (attar) is known in India much before
the world became familiar with rose scents. On account of its pleasing aroma and slow evaporation
rate falling under the category of lower ‘base note’ vetiver oil as such is a ‘perfume in its own right’
for which no synthetic substitute is yet available.
Pure vetiver (khus) root-oil known in trade as “Ruh-Khus” could be easily found in the
perfumery shops in India. “Ruh-Khus” is duly matured pure khus oil. The khus oil distilled from
wildly occurring vetiver (khus) roots by traditional slow fired copper vessel “Bhapka” distillation
units, is air dried to remove traces of water as well as the lighter non-polar fractions that may be
trapped in the oil during distillation. Subsequently, the oil is stored in aerated leather made containers
called “Kuppi” and allowed to mature till the color of the oil turns dark green. Natural aeration
available in the leather made containers facilitates evaporation of water if any, and the undesirable
lighter fractions, as well as facilitates oxidation to add perfumery value to the oil through optimum
esterification. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in
some 36 % of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium) and 20
% of all men’s fragrances. A 15 – 30 % dilution of vetiver oil in alcohol is good enough to make
true vetiver perfume, and its further dilutions have value as vetiver ‘eau de cologne’ and ‘eau de
toilette’. ‘ Vetiver pour Homme’ by Carven 1957, and ‘Vetivert’ by Guerlain 1961, are the two
famous ‘eau de toilette’ for men prepared from vetiver oil (Groom, 1992).
Further, the vetiver oil is very persistent and one of the finest fixatives known. Its complex
chemical composition and oil odor, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other
perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet
available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons and carbonyl
compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery
applications as a valuable resource. Because of clear-cut differences in boiling point of the various
constituents of vetiver oil, its vetiverol fraction could be easily separated by fractional distillation of
oil under high vacuum. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl
acetate. Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odors and fixative qualities, and are used as blender
with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oak-
moss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of
fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and
floral compounds (Lavania, 2003).
In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively
used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream,
cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of
chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.
Aromatherapy
Vetiver oil owes several beauty benefits and emotional effects. It balances the activity of the
sebaceous oil glands, has deodorizing properties, and helps normalize oily skin and clear acne. It
replenishes moisture in dry and dehydrated skin and has a rejuvenation effect on mature skin, as well
as cuts / wounds / irritated and inflamed skin. When used regularly during pregnancy, vetiver oil
reportedly prevents stretch marks. The oil strengthens the central nervous system, and is helpful in
overcoming depression, insomnia, anxiety, stress, tension and nervousness (Wilson, 1995).
When locally applied in rheumatism, lumbago, headache, sprain, it is a relieving embrocation.
Infusion of roots is a refreshing drink in fever, inflammation and irritability of the stomach. Some
people use vetiver oil as aphrodisiac (Wilson, 1995).
Vetiver has been in use since ancient times for its aromatic roots and its essential oil. Lately,
this has become a plant of choice for environmental protection and industrial applications.
Utilization of vetiver plant for both of the aforesaid applications appears to be in antagonistic
juxtaposition. Digging of roots for essential would offset the very purpose of utilization of this plant
for environmental applications. Therefore, definite complementary strategies need to be developed.
For utilization of vetiver for environmental and industrial applications of above ground plant parts,
it may desirable to identify vetiver genotype so that the digging becomes unattractive i.e. the roots
produce little or no oil but root geometry and growth is commensurate with the environmental
requirement. And vetiver for oil, should have high oil productivity and improved quality suiting to
perfumery requirements. It is also important that emphasis is laid to develop non-seeding cultivars
suiting to specific situation, so that vetiver does not become weed to non-target areas. This could be
attempted through triploid breeding, as opined by Lavania and Kumar (1998).
Further, the high viscosity and low evaporation rate of vetiver oil makes it a perfume in its
own right. Therefore, it may be worthwhile to hunt for diversity for different perfumery notes, to
further enhance the perfumery value of vetiver.
www.vetiver.com/TVN_vetoil01.pdf