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Aromatic Absolutes
Aromatic Absolutes-
Their Role in Natural Perfumery
by Christopher McMahon
Introduction to Nature's Aromatic Gifts
The world of
aromatic plants
provides the raw
material for distilling/
extracting a wide
range of sublime
essences in the
form of absolutes,
essential oils,
attars, CO2 extracts
and hydrosols. Each technique of
distillation/extraction is capable of removing
some dimension of the plants complex aroma.
Up to this time no technique has been devised
which can fully capture the total fragrant bouquet
lying at the heart of each aromatic spice,
balsamic resin, precious wood, exotic flower,
fresh grass, earthy root, etc.
Nature always keeps some of her precious
secrets intact so that we may maintain our
respect, appreciation and reverence for the
mysterious delight of aromas which lend an
appreciable degree of happiness to our everyday
life.
There can be no doubt that the full richness of an
aroma is most perfectly captured in the living
plant itself. When one enters an environment
where the air is vibrating with the fragrant symphony
of invisible molecules charged with the life
impulse of a delicate flower or herb, it often influences
the heart and mind in a deep and penetrating
way. It can awaken memories of precious
moments in the life journey or can unlock doors of
perception which give one a glimpse of a sublime
life that is filled with wonder and hope. For thousands
of years those intrigued by the mysteries of
aroma, have sought ways and means of capturing
those essences so that the powerful emotions
and feelings evoked by fragrance in its natural
state can be recreated even in the midst of the
routine of everyday life.
Today many of us, living in the crowded conditions
of cities and towns are seeking for means of
reconnecting to a natural world. In many cases
essences derived from botanical resources help
us establish a rainbow bridge into times, places
and environments that speak to us of a rich inner
life that is based upon a refined outlook on existence
rather than the frantic accumulation of
material goods. It may be that these sublime
aromas speak to us of the wisdom and knowledge
to be gained from "listening" to the trees, shrubs,
vines, and flowers that have been our friends and
companions for thousands of years. But no matter
how we wish to explain the impact these aromas
have on us, we can certainly say that it "exists", and that with a little interest on our part we can
directly participate in exploring this world by
entering into the domain of natural perfumery, or
some other branch of the aromatic arts, crafts or
sciences.
A significant amount of information has appeared
in recent years with regards to the world of
aromatherapy. In this discipline there is a strong
emphasis on the therapeutic value of essential
oils and hydrosols. More and more research has
been devoted to exploring the scientific basis of
the benefit of this therapy. There is also a growing
body of knowledge based on practical experiences
of those engaged in this work. It reveals the
important role the human interaction plays in the
healing process. Often times those engaged in
this work have a true sympathy and understanding
of the people that come to them and take the
time to help their patients develop a new attitude towards themselves and life. The oils aside from
their specific therapeutic uses also help to create
an open atmosphere where positive communication
can take place. One of the special attributes
of natural aromatic essences is that they help a
person relax and feel comfortable in unfamiliar
environments.
Since this world has been aptly explored by many
competent practitioners and authors on aromatherapy,
I shall move onto a subject of natural
perfumery with specific reference to aromatic
absolutes.
Natural Perfumery Using Absolutes
Natural perfumery is an aesthetic pursuit which
holds many hours, days, months and years of
delight for a person who wishes to explore it. I do
not think it would be proper to classify it as a
therapeutic discipline in the sense one may wish
to do with aromatherapy. It is certainly an activity
which can awaken a truly positive, enthusiastic
and creative attitude in ones mind, and this can
go a long way towards providing a framework for
a healthy and happy life, but beyond this it maybe
difficult to ascertain its therapeutic value according
to the Western scientific module. So it is my
feeling that it is one of those simple pleasures that
one may wish to enjoy as a personal creative
endeavor which, in fact, may end up pleasing
many other people as well.
Aromatic absolutes, which form an important part
of the creative perfumer’s palette, are natural
wonders with unique personalities that require
careful study to appreciate. Later, I will discuss
how an absolute is made but at this juncture it is
important to realize that a pure absolute is a
highly concentrated product requiring hundreds
and in many cases thousands of pounds of
botanical material to make one kilo of the final
product. In its pure state it is far too dense to truly
analyze from an olfactory standpoint. In order to
evaluate the essence properly it is wiser to dilute
it in a carrier oil like jojoba, a fixative or perfumer's
dilulent like an undenatured 190% pure grain
alcohol. Of the three above mentioned materials
an odorless grain alcohol seems to me the most
ideal because none of the subtle nuances is
muted as may happen with jojoba or changed as
may happen with sandalwood. The alcohol totally
dissolves the absolute into itself and transforms it
into a highly mobile liquid (some absolutes are
solid, semi solid or very viscous materials at room
temperature). In Steffen Arctander's classic work,
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin,
he writes:
Importance of Studying Absolutes in Diluted Form
"Incidentally, very few flower oils will, undiluted
and in a pure state, smell like the flower from
which they are extracted. Dilutions down to 0.1%
or even less will usually develop the true-tonature
odor."
Admittedly Arctander was a person with a highly
developed sense of smell and his study of absolutes
and essential oils had reached a very
advanced stage. Also his statement refers to the
study of the oil with a view to understand its total
bouquet and not necessarily implies that this is
the percentage to be used in a final product. Most
people applying a perfume to their body, using it
in a diffuser or embedding it in a piece of aromatic
jewelry require a somewhat stronger aromatic
impact than can be supplied at the percentage
mentioned in the above quotation so one may
wish to study the oil in a dilution of 6%-12% and
when the final product is being designed may
wish to increase the total presence of absolutes
from 12-25% percent depending on the qualities
of the essence itself and also the effect one
wishes to create. If one follows this advice they
will notice very dramatic positive changes in the
aromatic aura radiating from the oil.
It has been my personal experience that some
absolutes are so overpowering, sometimes show-
-ing some unpleasant notes when smelled in its
pure form and when diluted in the above mentioned
ratio, becomes an essence of most sublime
beauty. I find that one of the most common
mistakes made by people in the business of supplying
absolutes or using them for aromatic
creations is to judge the qualities of the absolute
based on its pure form.
Along with proper dilution, comes the need for
digestion and aging in the selected medium. On
the very day the dilution is done, the absolute
undergoes a positive transformation but in a few
days or a few weeks time the solution becomes
finer and finer. There is a period of time where the
oil and alcohol are entering into a symbiotic relationship
and this takes some time to become
smooth. Later when a person begins blending
absolutes with each other and using fixatives to
extend the period of diffusion into the atmosphere,
one may wish to consider several months
as a minimum period of time for the perfume to
mature.
Olfactory Contemplation
Now the most interesting and incredible thing
about this world of exploring single note absolutes
is that it is immediately accessible to anyone with
an interest in the subject. Blending of different oils
can come at a more advanced stage, but the
exploration of a single note absolute in proper
dilution is a course of study that anyone can take
up. It can become a life study in itself. So when
we go to study an oil, what do we need to do?
First of all one needs to have something like a
non-scented perfumer’s blotter paper or clean
cotton swab to dip into the aromatic solution. Only
the very tip should be brought in contact with the
oil. Then one should commence their study. It is
ideal to start this work early in the day before
there are any distractions that will interrupt ones
concentration. It is a good way to mark the swab
or blotting paper so that one knows which oil they
are studying.
During the first hour one should endeavor to study
the oil at 15 minute intervals. It is during this
phase that one will come to know more about
what is called the top notes (usually of short duration)
and heart or body notes. After one hour the
solution enters its dry out phase and one will be
very surprised to learn that their will be a perceptible
odor (often very pleasant) on the swab for a
number of days. Sometimes those who are really
keen to study the difference between the top
notes and the heart notes will dip the first swab,
and then after 15-30 minutes dip a second swab
and study the two side by side.
That is one can study the freshly dipped swab
with the one that has entered its heartnote phase.
Along with this one may wish to keep an index
card where they make specific notations about
the changes one notices. This can be frustrating
because the language of olfaction is not very
developed but there are a number of models
which one can study to see which one suits ones
needs. The main thing is that one needs to begin
to fix in their mind the various characteristics of
the oil so that they begin to understand its unique
personality. This becomes the key to effective
blending later on.
Describing Olfactory Experience
Following is a typical olfactory analysis as given
by Stephen Arctander. One can naturally develop
their own style of describing the unfolding characteristics
of an oil and may even disagree with
Arctander's evaluation (for smell is a highly
personal affair) but I think his description gives
some idea of the beauty and complexity of an
absolute:
"Lavender Absolute from Concrete-Steffen
Arctander
Lavender Absolute is prepared by alcohol extraction of the lavender concrete, chilling of the alcoholic
solution and filtration and subsequent
removal of the solvent in vacuum.
Lavender absolute is a dark, green, viscous liquid
of very rich, sweet-herbaceous, somewhat floral
odor; in dilution it bears a close resemblance to
the odor of the flowering shrub. Its woody herbaceous
undertone and coumarin-like sweetness
duplicate the odor of the botanical material far
better than does the essential oil. The absolute is
sweeter but less floral than the essential oil, and
the two materials can form a very pleasant combination.
However one cannot replace the other in
compounding.
Lavender absolute is used in citrus colognes, chypres,
fougeres, new mown hay bases, forest
notes etc. It blends well with labdanum, oak
moss, vetiver, patchouli, pine needle oils."
In my own way, I have also attempted to describe
absolutes from time to time. It is based upon environmental
and cultural influences as experienced
through my travels in India. Here is one which I
did on comparing Jasmin sambac and Jasmin
grandiflorum absolutes:
"Perhaps the most widely used of all the exotic
flowers was Jasmin sambac and without realizing
it, I began to imbibe a wonderful dimension of
Indian culture simply by inhaling the aroma of this
simple yet elegant flower whose floral bouquet
consists of many 'themes' all distinct yet interconnected.
In giving an account of this essence I
know my words will fall short but some attempt
must be made which can be supplemented at a
later time by people more adept at this type of
description. The opening notes of Jasmin sambac
impress me as being heavy and sweet with a richness
and depth that immediately draw one into
the realm of profound mystery. The first impression
of Jasmin grandiflorum absolute is by my
estimation, much more soft and sweet, in a sense
more ethereal and light. As the essence of Jasmin
sambac absolute unfolds it reveals sultry exotic
warmth as if it was a vessel in which the rays of
the tropical full moon were condensed and these
rays were in turn transmuted into invisible fragrant
exudations. The buds, in fact, open around 11 PM
and the fullness of the odor permeates the atmosphere
in darkest hours of the night. The warmth
and sweetness of Jasmin grandiflorum on the
other hand, is the gentle warmth of a fresh morning
with buds softly opening to greet the beauty of
the new day. They seem to be a crucible opening
their elegant petals from which soft gentle
aromatic light rays flow. The time of their unfolding
is just before dawn and their ethereal perfume
is at its peak just as the sun rises. As the aromatic
theme of Jasmin sambac develops, one can
detect very pronounced fruity notes intermingling
with ones shared with the orange flower complex.
It is truly the 'Queen of the Night'.
As Jasmin grandiflorum resides into her base
notes, one can pick up refined herbaceous, fruity
notes which sometimes remind one of aromatic
tea. I would call Jasmin grandiflorum, "Queen of
the Dawn".
Fragrance can act as a superb means of cultural
transmission if that particular flower is a part of
the inner heritage of the country where it is found
growing. In this regard, I do think that the
essences of flowers coming from different localities
in the world can produce a "connection" with
other times and places if we allow them to "act"
upon us without to much interference from our
rational mind.
(Easier said than done!!!).
Recently I put together a Fragrance Diary which
may prove of some use to those engaged in olfactory
analysis.
Fragrance Diary
What part of aromatic plant is the essence from?
Root__ Bark__ Leaf__ Flower__
Seed__ Wood__
What classification is the fragrance under?
Animalic__ Balsamic__ Campheraceous__Citrus__ Coniferous__
Earthy__ Floral__ Fruity__ Green/Leafy__ Herbaceous__ Medicinal__
Minty__ Resinous__ Spicy__ Woody__
Volatility and Tenacity
Top Note(very volatile, lacks tenacity)__
Heart note(intermediate volatility and tenacity)__
Base note(low volatility and high tenacity)__
What element is the fragrance associated with?
Earth__ Water__ Fire__
|Air__ Etheric__
To what gender does the fragrance belong?
Feminine/Yin__ Masculine/Yang___ Neutral__
Which vehicle of human consciousness does this fragrance relate. too?
Inspirational/Spiritual__ Intellect/Mental___
Emotional/Aesthetic__ Physical/Practical__
Mood evoked by this fragrance?
Vivacity__ Passion__ Mystery__ Euphoria__ Fantasy__ Serenity__ Clarity__
Qualities of the fragrance?
Stimulant__ Erogenic__ Sultry__ Narcotic__ Soothing__ Antierogenic__ Fresh__ Exhalting__
Season with which fragrance is associated?
Spring__ Summer__ Fall__ Winter__
Ayurvedic qualities of the fragrance?
Hot__ Cold__ Moist__ Dry__
Chakra with which this fragrance is associated?
Root__ Sexual__ Solar Plexus__ Heart__ Throat__ Third Eye__ Crown
Color evoked by the fragrance?
Images that come to mind while smelling this essence?
The real joy and beauty of this exercise is that one
becomes knowledgeable about a realm of exquisite
natural essences that are, in most cases,
perfumes in themselves. Working from this foundation
of practical knowledge and adding to it a bit
of understanding about fixatives, one is ready to
create single note perfumes that are of a beauty
and richness that can, in many cases rival the
most exotic complex perfume creations at a fraction
of the cost. It is definitely true that some
people love the intricate complexities of perfumes
containing many ingredients and there is a place
for that, but it is equally true that if a person
personally studies individual aromatic essences,
that they may find their own signature fragrance
which expresses more clearly who they are than
anything purchased in a store.
Enhancing Olfactory Experience by Worlds Related with the Absolute
Along with this one can further develop their sensitivity
to a particular essence by studying everything
about the plant from which it is extracted,
the place where it grows, the people who harvest
it, the traditions surrounding it, etc. This type of
endeavor allows a persons creative imagination
to awaken at a deeper level and when engaged in
such studies, accompanied by the aroma wafting
from the perfumers testing strip, it becomes possible
to enter into a deeper level of appreciation
and understanding with regards to the whole
process of bringing the aromatic essence of a
plant from some distant land into the form of a
precious oil.
When our attention becomes suffused with this
type of information, the enthusiasm and happiness
that arises in the heart also communicates
itself to others. It adds an invisible dimension of
energy to the the physical materials that pass
through our hands and while this may not be measured
by any scientific instrumentation it may be
detectable by those who love to think of the caring
attitude that goes into creating any beautiful thing.
What is an Absolute?
When we receive a precious absolute in its undiluted
form what does it consist of? It consists of a
viscous liquid or semi-solid mass containing alcohol
soluble waxes, pigments and the volatile oil of
the plant material extracted. This is a very important
thing to realize for many people have the misconception
that an absolute is a pure volatile oil.
This is not the case as the percent of actual volatile
oil in the absolute can range from 10-55%
depending on source material. Actually the presence
of the waxes serves a very beneficial
purpose in most cases as it acts as a natural
preservative and fixative for the volatile oil. Some
perfumers consider the presence of pigments to
be a nuisance as it highly colors the final product,
but for many people involved in natural perfumery
the luminous colors of the absolutes may be a
positive asset.
One may wish to know what an advantage does
an absolute present over those oils produced by
either steam or hydro distillation. In the case of
many plant materials that have very delicate ethereal
components, the only way to capture and
preserve them is by using a solvent at close to
room temperature. If they are subjected to intense
heat of any kind these precious molecules are
destroyed.
In past times when labor was cheap, a method
called enfleurage was used which involved placing
flowers on trays containing a purified fat,
stacking them one on top of the other and after
12-24 hours removing the fresh flowers and
replacing them with fresh ones. This process was
repeated day after day until the fact became thoroughly
permeated with the plants natural
essence. The resulting product was called
pomade. This pomade was then washed with
alcohol to remove the volatile oil, pigments etc. to
to create the 'pomade absolutes'. This method
has been described in numerous works most
notably in Ernest Guenther's Essential Oils
Volume 1. I would highly recommend reading his
account of this traditional extraction process. But
as our concern is with modern methods of
production discussions of concrete (the modern
version of pomade) production takes precedence.
In some cases a flower is capable of being both
distilled and extracted. Ylang ylang, neroli/orange
blossom, lavender, rose and several others fit into
this category. But it proves beneficial for the
distillers/extractors of natural aromatics to use
both processes on the same plant material
because the ranges of aromatic molecules
produced by the different methods are quite
distinct. It broadens the natural perfumer’s palette
and often some radiant perfume essences can be
created simply by combining the steam/hydro
distilled oil with the absolute produced from the
same botanical.
So let us look at the production of a typical absolute.
Since Jasmin absolute production is very
familiar to me, having been in South India several
times during the season of extraction, I will use
this flower as an example of how the essence is
produced. Following is a selection of extracts
from my journals kept during visits to South India in
the past as well as current observations.
Production of Jasmin Concrete
"Inside the factory we were shown the basic set of
extracting units. Three were kept for the extraction
of Jasmin grandiflorum and three for Jasmin
sambac. The unit for J. grandiflorum had a capacity
of 150 kilos of fresh flowers and the unit for J.
sambac a capacity of 100 kilos. In a previous visit
to India in 1995 I had seen units for Jasmin
extraction of a much larger size so I was curious
as to why they had opted for the smaller ones. Mr.
Sethuraman explained within these small units a
much more thorough washing of the flowers with
highly purified hexane could be done thus
preserving the greatest amount of the highly volatile
aromatic molecules in the concrete. They then
showed us how the flowers were loaded into the
units. Circular perforated trays slide over a central
column within the extractors. Each tray holds 15
kilos of flowers that are spread in thin layers so
the hexane can access all parts of the flower. One
tray is stacked upon another with a special
vertebrae-shaped piece of metal in between
which prevents the tray above from squashing the
one below. It is important that the flowers remain
unbruised so that no “off” note appears in the final
product. Once the extractor is fully loaded it is
sealed and the process of washing with hexane
begins. Two washes are done of one hour each
for each batch. The solvent dissolves all extractable
matter from the plant which includes nonaromatic
waxes, pigments and highly volatile
aromatic molecules. The solution containing both
solvent and dissolvable plant material is filtered
and the filtrate subjected to low pressure distillation
to recover the solvent for further use. The
remaining waxy mass is what is called the concrete
and it contains in the case of J. grandiflorum
as much as 55% of the volatile oil."
The preparation of the concrete is the least technical
part of the process but still requires great
skill and understanding of the plant material. Each
extractor has his own methods which he/she has
found suitable for that particular botanical. Many
extractors tend to specialize in just one or two
absolutes so their methods become very fine
tuned. They develop a "feel" for the material
which is as important as any of the technical considerations.
The extractor must also have a good
knowledge of the solvent they are using. Each
type of solvent has its own qualities. In India
hexane is the solvent of choice. Hexane or any
solvent used in the preparation of the concrete
has to be a highly purified material as any impurities
may produce off notes in the final product.
Most extractors have to do further purification of
the hexane which they receive from the commercial
suppliers of this material. The solvent must
also have the quality of dissolving only the
pigments, waxes and volatile oil contained within
the plant. It is very important that they do not
dissolve the water content (which is very high) as
it will quickly dilute the solvent and render it ineffective
in extracting the required parts of the raw
material to which it is being applied. So this is why
a material like alcohol cannot be used in this initial
phase. The solvent must also be a highly volatile
material so that when the time comes to distill it
off, it easily comes out of the solution. The whole
idea is that the delicate aromatic constituents of
the plant should not be disturbed in this process.
Very slight changes in temperature can adversely
affect the aroma of the concrete.
Once the concrete is prepared it is kept in cool
place until the time comes to prepare the absolute.
Absolutes are seldom prepared ahead of
time as the concrete with it high concentration of
waxes acts as a natural preservative and under
proper conditions can be kept for a number of
years. Once a firm order for the absolute comes,
then the extractor proceeds to make the conversion
from the concrete.
Production of Floral Absolutes
"Another part of our tour took us to the area where
the absolutes are prepared. Here, in a much
smaller area, the concentrated concretes are
processed further to remove the waxy materials
which dilute the pure essential oil. They also are
poorly soluble in alcohol and other aromatic materials
so their removable is, in most cases, a
necessity. (One interesting exception is for the
use of the concrete in the preparation of solid
perfumes which has become popular in the last
couple of years.) Often though the concrete is left
as is until a firm order comes for a customer for
the absolute as the waxes act as a good preservative
for the essential oil. To prepare the absolute
from the jasmine concrete, the waxy substance
is warmed and stirred with pure sugar
cane alcohol. In India this is the only pure alcohol
available to distillers/extractors. In other Western
countries pure ethanol is used. The temperature
to which this solution is heated is from 115-125 F.
During the heating and stirring process the concrete
breaks up into minute globules greatly
increasing the surface area of the original mass.
Since the aromatic molecules are more soluble in
alcohol than is the wax an efficient separation of
the two takes place. But along with the aromatic
molecules a certain amount of wax also becomes
dissolved and this can only be removed by agitating
and freezing the solution at very low
temperatures(around -30 degrees F). In this way
most of the wax precitates out. As a final precaution
the purified solution is cold filtered leaving
only the wax-free material.
The alcohol is recovered from the de-waxed
extract by gentle distillation under reduced pressure.
Much care has to be exercised at this stage
so that the more volatile components of the
extract remain intact. This process of alcohol
removal from the extract is done in several stages
until the final removal is done under vacuum. In
fact, the whole process of preparing the absolute
is as much an art as it is a science. The person
doing it must have a 'feel' for the material so that
they can sense what the right moment to perform
each procedure is."
Many absolutes can be used as is because when
they are dissolved in alcohol, the waxes act as a
natural fixative, allowing them to radiate their
fragrance for a long period of time. Further slowing
of evaporation can be produced by adding
certain fixative essential oils like sandalwood,
vetiver, balsam tolu, balsam peru, frankincense,
myrrh, etc. Sometimes these fixatives produce an
effect on the composition which changes it from
its original form. That is, it creates a totally new
aromatic profile which differs from that of a pure absolute. Until one has gained much experience
in using fixatives, they should be very cautious in
how much they add to the perfume creation they
are engaged in making. The safest of all fixatives
to use, even in high proportions is sandalwood. Its
soft precious woods bouquet recedes into the
background even when used in amounts of 90%
to 10% of the absolute. Other fixatives exert a
very noticeable effect at 1% to 99% absolute so
this clearly shows how important the choice of
fixative becomes. It can be extremely exciting to
use the more potent fixatives because they can
create a whole new essence using the simplest of
combinations but it is wise to start with a 1% addition
of the fixative selected and add it to the absolute
in .25% increments from day to day until one
is satisfied with the composition. (I will devote a
paper to fixatives at a later date).
Before closing this introduction to absolutes I
would like to include a bit about the creation of
these precious aromatic gems that often is forgotten.
This concerns the growing, cultivation and
harvest of the plants used in preparing them (the
absolutes). It is often taken for granted that thousands
of pounds of material are readily available
for the extractor to do their work. Nothing could be
further from the truth. It comes to the extractor
only through months of hard work by the farmer
and his family. The aromatic crops used in absolutes
are frequently ones that we would call,"labor intensive" ones. Many have to be hand
harvested which is just the final stage in their seasonal
life cycle. Up to that point the plants have
been tended by proper pruning, fertilizing, weeding,
etc. Nature also has her own say as to the
success and failure of a particular crop because
slight changes in weather, like to much or to little
rain, excess heat, insect infestations, etc may
play a factor in the quality of the final crop. It is just
as much an art and craft to manage the crops in
the field as it is to properly extract them at the
factory. It is a work of extreme sensitivity and
refinement.
Recently I took a group of fragrance enthusiasts,
aromatherapists and essential oil company
owners to South India to experience the many
dimensions of the countries aromatic traditions,
including meeting with the farmers. One fine
morning in September we visited a Jasmin farm
where we were able to, in our own small way, to
participate in the Jasmin harvest. I think it truly
gave everyone a better idea of what it means
when it is said that it requires 8,000,000 hand
picked blossoms to produce one kilo (35 ounces)
of absolute.
"As we proceeded toward the Nilgri Hills and
entered into the countryside proper the scenery
became more and more beautiful. This region of
India is again another unique type of environment
different than any we had yet encountered. It is a
bit drier, less humid than the coastal region we
had passed through on our journey to Tanjore and
Madurai and totally different than the high mountain
regions of Kodikannal. India is a land with an
incredible diversity of micro climates, soil types,
and topographies and on this short tour we can
only explore a few of them.
Our bus came to a halt under some tall shade
trees where a dirt road diverged from the paved
country lane upon which we were traveling.
Guided by our hosts, we walked up into another
world which could just have well existed centuries
ago. The sun had been up for a short time when
we entered the grounds of the immaculately kept
Jasmin grandiflorum plantation owned by our
hosts. I think we were all stunned by this scene of
eternal beauty. The angelic petals of the delicate
Jasmin grandiflorum buds had quietly opened in
the early morning hours and the perfume floating
across the fields was of an etheric odor. It is true
that a well made absolute can catch a little of this
essence but it can never substitute for the living
experience of being in the presence of the plants
and the environments in which they grow.
All nature seemed to welcome us with gladness
and as we roamed through the fields we not only
inhaled the intoxicating beauty of this etheric
essence but our eyes feasted on hummingbirds,
butterflies, coconut palms, hillocks, and many
other scenes of exquisite beauty. Soon we had
our baskets in hand and were participating in the
morning harvest. Plucking each delicate blossom
one by one, we were initiated into the astounding
reality that it takes 8 million blossoms to produce
one kilo of absolute. I do not think any of us will
ever use an absolute with anything but the greatest
of respect after seeing what a real jasmine
harvest entails.
Here we were able to see a truly organic gardening
operation. Mr. Sivaramakrishna and his family
were the pioneers of organic gardening practices
in their region and have achieved astounding success
by using green manure crops, natural compost,
neem sprays, and other neem products.
Both in the field and in a more formal presentation
given while we had a light breakfast in the fields,
he explained to us how they had been able to successfully
bring organic gardening practices into
the cultivation of Jasmin grandiflorum and Jasmin
sambac. I think that this work that they have done
will become a model for many other farms in India
as it is practical, cost effective, and draws upon
locally available resources.
Each day has been one of increasing happiness
and beauty for us and somehow visiting the
Jasmin grandiflorum fields took that experience to
another plane. It was like being a child again in
the most wonderful sense of the word. If one has
any doubt about the true therapeutic value of
fragrance they should just stand in a jasmine field
at dawn surrounded by the grand beauty of
nature, absorbing the energy of an ancient land
through every pore of their body and they will
certainly know that there can be no more perfect
window into a world of gentle peace and happiness.
There can be no doubt that one has then to
hold that window open through their own personal
aspiration but first one's heart must be touched by
this type of experience to remember that beyond
all dark shadows and difficultiesis a life of true
innocence, purity and delight."
Concluding Remarks
In conclusion I think one can say that the creation of anything beautiful and sublime is as much a part of a person's appreciation of all the parts that make it happen as it is the actual end product. When our hearts and minds open up to the many worlds that intersect in the tiny vial of pure natural essence that rests in our hands, we can infuse our creations with gratitude and respect for the people, places, and processes that have allowed us to work with something so precious. Then the eyes are filled with wonder and delight and the simplest perfume becomes a treasure to the person who has the nose to smell the life force that has been poured into it through the union human effort and nature's bounty.