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Absolute 6 Hyacinth -- Labdanum
Hyacinth Absolute
Hyacinth Absolute was at one time extracted from the flowers of Hyacinthus orientalis, which originate in Asia Minor and the Balkans but were grown in Holland for extraction. To the best of my knowledge there is no genuine Hyacinth Absolute offered today. Generally what is offered as the real absolute is very skillfully bouqueted absolutes created from synthetic and natural aromatic isolates. The perfume houses offering these types of absolutes do a head-space analysis of the living flower and from this they come to know the components of the aroma. They then reconstruct the aroma more or less skillfully. A very high quality Hyacinth absolute, "so-called," can also sell for thousands of dollars per kilo.
According to Stephen Arctander a genuine Hyacinth absolute is generally a reddish-brown to dark brown or greenish-brown, viscous liquid with an "intensely sweet, green, floral, but somewhat share and at first unpleasant odor; later in tremendous tenacity, it tones down to a very hyacinth-like, floral and foliage-green fragrance.
Blends well with galbanum co2 and eo, ylang abs and eo, styrax eo ad resinoid, osmanthus abs, peru balsam eo and abs, kewda ruh and attar, saffron attar and abs, cananga eo, kadam attar, champaca abs and attar, white champa eo and co2, , cassie abs, mimosa abs, boronia abs, Aglaia odorata abs, elder flower abs, jasmin auriculatum abs, orange flower abs, coriander eo and co2, orris abs and co2, tuberose abs, frangipani abs, bakul abs and attar.
"It was the second letter which Steele took in his hands for the
twentieth time since it had come to him here, three hundred miles into
the wilderness. There were half-a-dozen pages of it, written in a
woman's hand, and from it there rose to his nostrils the faint, sweet
perfume of hyacinth. It was this odor that troubled him--that had
troubled him since yesterday, and that made him restless and almost
homesick to-night. It took him back to things--to the days of not so
very long ago when he had been a part of the life from which the letter
came, and when the world had seemed to hold for him all that one could
wish.
Philip Steele of the Royal Northwest Mounted Police
by
James Oliver Curwood
Jasmin auriculatum Absolute
Jasmin auriculatum or Gardenia jasmine is extracted from the tiny delicate white flowers of Jasmin auriculatum which is though to be native to India. In recent years this lovely flower has been grown on a semi-commerical scale for the production of the concrete and absolute.
The absolute is reddish brown and of a soft waxy consistency at cool temperatures which becomes easily pourable after heating in a warm water bath. The odor displays a fresh, sweet, warm, exotic, gardenia-like profile with a rich chocolatey undertone and delicate tea-like nuances. The absolute has good tenacity with a lovely delicate sweet gardenia-tea dryout.
Blends beautifully with Jasmin sambac abs and hydroessence, Jasmin grandiflorum absolute and hydroessence, elderflower abs, cassie abs, mimosa abs, styrax eo and resinoid, ylang abs and ylang fractions, , labdanum abs(incense note), cistus, ambrette seed abs, frankincense eo and abs, davana eo, sandalwood eo and abs, cabreuva eo, ruh kewda, osmanthus abs.
In perfumery the absolute would be an excellent addition high class florals, oriental bouquets, sacred perfumes, tropical composition and leather creations.
"
Ah, these jasmines, these white jasmines!
I seem to remember the first day when I filled my hands
with these jasmines, these white jasmines.
I have loved the sunlight, the sky and the green earth;
I have heard the liquid murmur of the river
through the darkness of midnight;
Autumn sunsets have come to me at the bend of the road
in the lonely waste, like a bride raising her veil
to accept her lover.
Yet my memory is still sweet with the first white jasmines
that I held in my hands when I was a child.
Many a glad day has come in my life,
and I have laughed with merrymakers on festival nights.
On grey mornings of rain
I have crooned many an idle song.
I have worn round my neck the evening wreath of
BAKULAS woven by the hand of love.
Yet my heart is sweet with the memory of the first fresh jasmines
that filled my hands when I was a child."
"First Jasmines"
by Rabindranath Tagore
Jasmin grandiflorum Absolute
Jasmin grandiflorum absolute or "Poet's Jasmine" is extracted from the creamy white flowers of the shrub, Jasminum grandiflorum which was once grown extensively in France but now most commerical growing and extraction is conducted in Egypt and India. The golden brown to dark brown viscous liquid displays a rich, warm, delicate, sweet fresh floral bouquet with a elegant fruity, tea-like undertone.
The absolute is used extensively in a wide range of perfumes including high class floral bouquets, tropical bases, oriental accords, chypre and fougere notes, sacred perfumes and historical creations. One of the most classic combinations of natural essences is the rose-jasmine "fond". Would be lovely in a "historical" perfume to commemorate the importance of the flower in Grasse's golden age of perfumery.
Blends beautifully with a wide range of materials including orange blossom abs, neroli eo, benzoin abs, sandalwood, mimosa abs, cassie abs, guaicwood eo, araucaria eo, champa abs, ylang abs and eo, parijata attar, rose leaf abs, rose otto and abs, basil eo, lime eo, orange eo, petitgrain eo, bergamot eo, osmanthus abs etc.
"A walk of ten minutes brought him to the iron gates of a great white
villa, over the high walls of which climbing roses and geraniums and
jasmine ran riot. The night air was heavy with their perfume. He
opened the side gate and walked up the gravelled drive to the terrace
whereon stood the house, commanding a wonderful view of the moon-lit
Mediterranean and the far-off mountains of Italy."
Mademoiselle of Monte Carlo
by William Le Queux
Jasmin sambac absolute
Jasmin sambac absolute is extracted from the flowers of the shrub, Jasminum sambac. Main extraction takes place in South India but the flower is grown in many other states, particularly in Uttar Pradesh for the production of Motia Attar and Motia/Bela Ruh. Grown extensively in China(for tea), Philippines, Thailand and Hawaii in gardens an for local aromatic industries.
The absolute is a amber in color with is a freely flowable liquid to waxy solid at room temperature(depending at what temperature the alcohol/concrete solution is cooled during the conversion from concrete to absolute) If it is a waxy mass at room temperature then gentle warming may be required for it to become a flowable liquid which then mixes nicely with other carrier oils and high proof perfumers alcohol.
From and olfactory standpoint the absolute displays a sweet, rich, floral, sultry, indolic note(the intensity of the indolic note can vary considerably from batch to batch) with a delicate fruity, tea-like undertone.
In perfumery the absolute would be a valuable addition to white floral's, oriental bases, tropical notes, sacred perfumes etc. It is one of the most important flowers in Indian garlands which are used for temple worship, marriages etc and would be lovely in a "garland" perfume along with rose, tagetes, tuberose and holy basil.
Blends beautifully with other white flower essences(Jasmin grandiflorum abs, Jasmin auriculatum abs, White Champa CO2, Tuberose Abs), Styrax eo, Peru Balsam eo and abs, cistus eo, fir balsam abs, angelica co2, holy basil eo, frangipani abs, frankincense eo and abs, mimosa abs, orange blossom abs, ambrette seed co2 and abs, patchouli co2 and abs, green tea abs and co2, vanilla abs and co2, pomegranate abs, henna leaf abs.
"Now the Future Buddha, after he had sent Channa on his errand, thought to himself, 'will take just one look at my son;' and, rising from the couch on which he was sitting, he went to the suite of apartments occupied by the mother of Rahula, and opened the door of her chamber. Within the chamber was burning a lamp fed with sweet-smelling oil, and the mother of Râhula lay sleeping on a couch strewn deep with jasmine and other flowers, her hand resting on the head of her son. When the Future Buddha reached the threshold, he paused, and gazed at the two from where he stood."
The Buddha/Jataka Tales
Jonquil absolute
Jonquil absolute is extracted from the fragrant narcissus species, Narcissus jonquila. It main area of extraction is in Provence, where the flower is cultivated for this purpose. Only very modest amounts of genuine absolute are produced today although there is a plentiful supply of the "bouqueted" Jonquil absolute which is often sold as the genuine material and at very high cost. The pure absolute is one of the most costly of absolutes when it can be procured.
The absolute is viscous, dark brown or dark orange to olive-green liquid with a heavy, honey-like, deep-sweet floral odor with a strong green undertone and a tenacious rich herbal, somewhat tobacco like dryout. Interwoven in the total bouquet is a sublime ethereal freshness which gives the absolute a unique warm lift.
Used sparingly with high-end floral compositions. Would be a delightful addition to literary perfumes, spring bouquets, and chypre bases.
"The soft breeze of spring, fragrant with the scent of yellow jonquils and snow-white narcissi, ripples over the grassy plains and patches of growing wheat, bearing it with it in varying cadences the song of innumerable larks or the distinct, broken notes of a nightingale trying its newly found voice in the thickets of bramble and briar-rose hidden away in on of the little ravines abounding in the Roman Compagna."
Donna Diana
By Richard Bagot
Labdanum absolute
Labdanum absolute is extracted from crude labdanum gum which in turn is derived from the boiling the leaves and twigs of Cistus ladaniferous in water. The plant is gathered and extracted mainly in Spain but is found growing wild in South France, Morocco and other Mediterranean countries.
The absolute is a dark brown, viscous liquid or plastic solid with a deep, sweet, dry, resinous/balsamic odor with a fine rich herbaceous,powdery, mossy, leather undertone of good tenacity, radiance and overall fixative value.
In perfumery labdanum abs finds extensive use in amber type perfumes, fougeres, chypres, lavender compositions, colognes, leather notes, oriental/incense creations, conifer blends.
Blends well with ambrette seed abs and co2, giant fir eo, douglas fir eo, fir balsam abs, oakmoss abs, lavender eo and abs, lavindin eo and abs, calamus eo and co2 extract, tonka bean abs, hay abs, flouve oil, , clay sage abs and eo, bergamot eo, yuzu eo and abs, patchouli co2 and abs, frankincense eo and abs, vetiver eo and co2 extract.
"TWIXT ancient Beersheba and Dan Another such a caravan Dazed Palestine had never seen As that which bore Sabea's queen Up from the fain and flaming South To slake her yearning spirit's drouth At wisdom's pools, with Solomon.
With gifts of scented sandalwood, And labdanum, and cassia-bud, With spicy spoils of Araby And camel-loads of ivory And heavy cloths that glanced and shone With inwrought pearl and beryl-stone She came, a bold Sabean girl. "
Dreams & Dust
by Don Marquis